The ‘recommended’ plan is to park in one of the marked Romsdalseggen carparks in Andalsnes (100NOK) and to buy bus tickets on the ‘tourist’ bus (250NOK) that takes hikers out to a carpark at Vengedalen to start the 10.3km trek back to the Romsdalen Gondola. An alternative is to drive yourself out to Vengedalen, paying the 100NOK road toll to get to the carpark. Whether you start from here at first light or much later, you will end up at the top of the Gondola in the midst of the daily crowd, with dozens of day trippers at the café from noon till sunset. You’ll also be walking away from the best views all day, needing to turn around regularly to capture the scenery. And you’ll need to walk down under the gondola in a knee-destroying 500m descent in a very steep (& boring) trek back to your vehicle. But what is ‘the other way’?
If you jag a free park in town and walk to the end of this trail (near the bottom of the Romsdalen Gondola) first thing in the morning (we did a resupply at the supermarket 750m away & left our campervan in their Andalsnes carpark at 9.30am), you can walk it all the other way! We climbed the very steep track up to the amazing Rampestreken viewing platform in a bit under an hour, gaining 500m+ in altitude in short time. We stayed at the platform for a ¼ hour without another soul in sight (normally the signs limit your time on the platform to <2 minutes to keep the ‘crowd’ moving). We then continued uphill for another 15 minutes and savoured our thermos of coffee at 11.00am in splendid serenity on the best table on the cafe balcony (which hadn’t yet opened for the day)!! It was brilliant being the only people there!
With no prior plan to trek-on, we filled our water bottles, used the WC and then headed off to walk the trail in reverse direction (out to Vengedalen). This was an outstanding experience staying above the clouds for most of the day and witnessing the full geographic splendour of a changing horizon characterised by the peaks, ridges and tarns of the high-country. We could have walked out to the carpark at Vengedalen and gambled on a ride back to Andalsnes, but we switched destinations on the fly, veering left at a track junction and walking 8.6km out to Isfjorden through the lovely forests, bubbling brooks, huts and tracks along the way. On arrival in Isfjorden at 2.00pm, it took just 2-3 minutes for a car to pick us up & we hitched back to our campervan in Andalsnes, arriving back around 2.15pm.
So ’the-other-way’ to get up above the Romsdalen Valley’, is to start from Andalsnes and trek the opposite way to the bulk of hikers. You ‘ll climb a bit more point-to-point, but you’ll enjoy both the Rampestreken viewing platform and the top of the Romsdalen Gondola in splendid serenity; you will be walking towards the best views all day and you’ll descend via beautiful forest tracks into either Isfjorden or Vengedalen, instead of smashing your knees for an hour walking vertically down under the gondola! We did not see a single other person on the entire point-to-point hike. Total cost for our day was 0NOK.
Major Risk: No noteworthy risks with this activity. We were whited-out by fast moving low cloud for an hour or so, but navigation was never really challenging and the track markers were clear all the way.