I really liked the guide's (Rod) clarity, pacing, and understated humor. Informative, interesting, and amusing without over-hyping or turning it into a forced laugh-fest. Addressed sensitive aspects of settler-indigenous history, but without the shaming/scolding tone you sometimes find. Brought in his personal feelings about the neighborhood without making it excessively about him. It's worth noting, though, that the tour was as much above ground as below. As it turned out, I appreciated the "above-below-above-below" pacing, the fresh air, and not having to constantly worry about hitting my head. Plus, much of what makes sense of the below-ground areas is how they relate to above-ground buildings and streets.