Twice before weāve booked this tour only to have Madam Pele intervene by serving up foul weather. Last year we actually made to dinner at the sheep station before a blizzard closed the road to the summit. I wrote a review of that one, noting the fact that the company gave us a full refund despite the fact that they had to pay for dinner, our guide, and the fuel to get that far. Great customer service, to be sure.
But this year, we finally made it! And I guess itās fair to say it was worth the wait. The trip began with a bit of sad news as we learned that Hank, our guide on the last, abortive, trip had lost his life in a motorcycle accident. It had obviously been a blow to the staff as well. This year our guide was Heraldo, and his knowledge of a myriad of subjects, from Hawaiian history to geology to astronomy and astrophysics was nothing short of amazing.
The dinner was a āboxed lunchā format (but hot) picked up at Waikoloa on our way to the mountain. Choices were beef and chicken (there was a vegetarian option as well) and both were quite good given the logistics of transporting it. Then came the real adventure. Weāve driven to the top of Pikeās Peak and this was similar but with more guardrails and a washboard surface that taxed everyoneās back and bladders! But oh, the view from the summit!
We arrived at the summit maybe 20 minutes before sunset, giving us time to take a few pictures and marvel at the observatories. One thing I thought was pretty cool (though others might say, āMeh, big dealā) was the view to the east where the shadow of the mountain stretched out across the Pacific.
After sunset, we drove back down to a spot at about the 12,800-foot level where Heraldo served brownies and hot chocolate and set up the telescope. Again I must mention his encyclopedic knowledge of stars and the ancient Polynesians use of the skies for navigation. The telescope viewing itself was a bit of an anti-climax. There wasnāt really all that much to look at other than the Andromeda Galaxy and a couple of nebulae, all of which pretty much looked like faint fuzzy blobs of light. But the overall view of the sky was absolutely mind-boggling. We had booked the date to coincide with the new moon so when it did get dark, it was REALLY dark! So dark that Orion, easy to pick out normally, became difficult to differentiate from the ābillions and billionsā of background stars. It was also the first time weād seen āzodiacal lightā (Google it) which was quite spectacular.
Those thinking of booking this trip need to keep a few things in mind. First, it IS a TRIP. We left the company HQ, near Costco, about 2 p.m. and returned just after 10 p.m. Second, the high altitude is not to be taken lightly. Heraldo did an excellent job of coaching us on how to breathe properly but we both experienced some light-headedness when we first got out of the van at the summit. We are both in good shape for our age, but we found ourselves walking and moving very slowly and deliberately. Third, once it got dark, the temperature really plummeted. Despite the warm parkas that were included with the tour, some folks were shivering by the time we got back on the van for the trip home. It seems strange to be putting on warm clothes in Kona with the temperature in the 80s, but youāll be very glad you did when that temperature drops into the 30s! Finally, it got a bit disorienting once it got really dark on the mountain. The dome of the sky was huge, you couldnāt see much of the surrounding earth and you spent most of the time with your head tilted back looking up. Add to that the thin air and the slight slope of the parking area and I found myself weaving around like Iād had one too many drinks!
But, overall, this adventure, along with the night snorkel with the mantas, is an absolute Bucket List/Must Do activity on the Big Island. And Hawaii Forest and Trail knows how to do it right!