On Valentine’s Day I took The Savvy Native’s tour of the Treme neighborhood of New Orleans. Milton “Boo” Carr was our tour guide. Mr. Carr is the real deal; a life-long resident of New Orleans who lives and breaths the history and culture of Treme, one the oldest, if not the oldest, neighborhood settled by Free People of Color (FPC) in America back in the late 1700’s. Mr. Carr is a master story teller whose anecdotes, often from his own life experience. weaves the fabric of this “back of town” neighborhood which developed just beyond the rampart of the original city, the French Quarter. As a resident of New Orleans I was aware of the Social Aid and Pleasure clubs, the history of Jazz, the Mardi Gras Indians, and the Civil Rights struggle here in New Orleans. Mr. Carr lives them. HIs insights gave me a real sense of how Treme, the Sixth Ward, developed into a vibrant, viable, self-sustaining neighborhood in a rigidly segregated city.
An example: traditional jazz was dying out in the 1960’s when Danny Barker, a very successful musician for 40 years, returned to the city and started a music program at the Fairview Baptist Church to revive traditional Jazz. His was very successful teaching the kids. But is was Trumbone Fats who taught the budding musicians to hustle a dollar by going out into the streets to play their music. I am a New Orleans resident. Now, when I pass through Jackson Square I understand that the older musicians at the upper end of the Square are playing traditional jazz while the younger ones at the lower end are playing their own improvisation on the traditional. Originally it was called Jass. But you can imagine what any teen with a can of paint would do with to the “J”. Stories like that made the two hours just fly by.
If you are coming to New Orleans, book The Savvy Native’s tours of the French Quarter, The Garden District and Treme, all of which I have taken, and you will understand how the Creoles, Les Americans and the FPC shaped this most foreign of American cities.